The Late Thread

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Mike

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Reply #75

Haha, yeah but that's for normal people. Not me!

So I've been quoted a "discounted" amount (no idea what the "discount" was for, I didn't ask for it, so seems a bit of fluff) of £470.

I'm going to consider my options over the night and over this pint of John Smith's that I medically need after my day...

 :smiley:
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carlcall

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Reply #76

Are you fully comp and if so you should have windscreen cover.....or did they make it optional. But that's disgusting £470.....did you phone your insurance as you don't lose any NCB for glass repairs or did you go direct to windscreen place?

Mike

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Reply #77

Yeah, fully comp, but it was optional, and not something I thought I'd need.  :grin: :smiley:

I can't even add it on, now, and then claim, as they told me about that on the phone, as they'd noted down I'd made an enquiry about it. Makes sense, that's how insurance works... They need the money from all the people who never claim to pay for the ones that do, so not really fair if I tried to add it to my policy then claim straight away.

The quote was from AutoGlass. Was "discounted" from £5XX to £470...

Although there's a rear screen from a 2014 C Class that's only done 2000 miles, so it's pristine. And I'm a competent home mechanic, so been watching tutorial vids on how it's done and it seems completely straight forward, there's 5 wires to connect to it, I need to clean up both bonding surfaces, then use the glass moving suction cups I already have, etc...

So the screen is £50, it's also 240 mile round trip to collect, so that'll be about another £40, then the proper sealant is about £10. So could be a viable option.
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carlcall

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Reply #78

Is the glass bonded to the car or in a rubber seal....whichever way it's a very simple job. If it's a rubber seal it will take two of you to do it.

Mike

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Reply #79

It's bonded. There's 5 wires that go to it for the heating, and the radio antenna. 4 are simple jobs, as the glass has the 4 terminal posts for the cables for the heating, but the radio antenna cable is on the glass, about 8 inches long, and I've no idea where that goes. I can follow the existing one to where it leads, but it disappears into some pretty cramped area, maybe it's accessible from the boot or something.

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carlcall

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Reply #80

The aerial cable won't be long but should be long enough to connect up before installing the screen. It maybe in the c pillar near the window.

It will take longer to clean the adhesive off than bond the new glass to the car.

I used to use Sikaflex for all my window bonding in the past.....it's basically the same as windshield glass adhesive.

Mike

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Reply #81

That's not what I'm apprehensive about. It's things like alignment, making sure it's perfectly straight, and at the right depth. The existing adhesive is about 6mm thick, so I'm going to lay a triangle shaped bead, then push the window into it, but how I'm to know exactly what depth, and how to hold it still while it sets, as if I come back hours later and it's moved and set I'll be gutted obviously...

What about cleaning the old adhesive off? Am I scraping with a blade, or using some chemical? Also the new window isn't brand new (almost, 14 plate car...), so how am I removing the old adhesive off of that? I don't want to scrape with a blade as it might take off the black coating on the edges of the inside of the screen.
Last Edit: Dec 23, 2014 1:17:33 am by i-CONICA
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carlcall

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Reply #82

I don't know about mercs but if they are like other screens they will have tabs stuck to the screen to align it with holes in the body work. You are panicking for no reason as it is really simple to do. I'll try and get some info for you....

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Mike

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Reply #83

Thanks,  :glad:
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carlcall

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Reply #84

Basically watch this as it's the same principal for both front and rear.



The bead only has to be about 5mm wide but has to be higher so that it squashes down and makes the seal. All you need to do is place your replacement glass in situe and see how much of a gap there is. Then just lay a bead down twice as thick as the gap.

Shame you're not closer Mike as it's roughly an hours job in total since you don't have to remove the rear screen.

But once in place let it go off for at least 12 hours due to it being in the rear of the car before driving as if you drive with your window down it will pop straight out.
Last Edit: Dec 23, 2014 10:15:36 am by carlcall

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Carol

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Reply #85

Lets hope its not windy (evil snigger)  :undecided:

carlcall

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Reply #86

Lets hope its not windy (evil snigger)  :undecided:

Mike

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Reply #87

Thanks Carl that's helpful.

The original window was recessed below the bodywork (not flush) by about 3 to 4mm, apparently to reduce noise as air doesn't then hit the edge of the glass, so I'm going to have to be careful to match that gap.

Also, I've got to remove the existing bead of adhesive which still has a strip of shattered glass running around it. How best do I remove this? Some sort of cheese wire device? Stanley knife? I've seen dedicated tools which look like a Stanley knife with a puller attached.

I'll get some pictures of the process I do anyway. I wish I'd have taken pics of the window freshly smashed, it's quite upsetting (for me)  :smiley:
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Mike

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Carol

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Reply #89

Yeah i can understand the shock, many moons ago we came out of the Mecca  at Pompey after an allnighter and found the bloody works motor which the BF wasnt sposed to have been driving  with all its windows smashed !


Normal driving ive had 3 chip repairs and one whole new windscreen , last because the chip repair that was good enough for the MOT guy for 2 years suddenly wasnt  the analy retentive prick. Still i got a new free windscreen.


Im so sorry this has happened right on top of Xmas too , tho whatever time of year its not good  .  :angry:

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