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Beginners Questions / Quarantining
« Last post by Radiation91 on Jan 20, 2018 10:31:48 pm »
Hi All!

I want to QT new fish before adding them to the main tank. I know I'm planning ahead but I would like your views :)

People have said that QTing stressful etc and stress is something i want to overcome as much as possible. So...

1) I've seen that you can't have live rock in a QT just in case you dose copper. Is this true? Or could i do a 100% WC and then use activated carbon to strip out copper once the QT period has done?

2) people use pipes to create caves and something of interest for the fish. I fully agree with this and was wondering if adding things like fake anemones as decoration had any impact on medicating etc? Obviously i would do it in such a way that i could see the fish but this sounds better than just a few pipe connectors.

3) Since this is a QT for NEW fish only (juvies or babies), what size tank would be appropriate? I fully appreciate that this will be down to opinion and i'm just looking for a rough idea. At the moment I'm liking the look of the Fluval Reef Sea M40 which is 42x40cm base and is 54L in volume. Based on the size of the fish at my LFS, this looks ok but I don't want to just guess. If there're any similar tank/cabinet combos which aren't too big but are more suitable then please let me know :)

Thanks in advance!
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Lighting / Anyone using It2060 lights?
« Last post by Funkyreef on Jan 20, 2018 5:35:39 pm »
Does anyone use the above lights? If so what settings do you have them on?
Alot of my sps and lps fade or bleach after I have bought them. I'm using triton with vinegar dosing since Christmas but I've had this problem for longer than that. Kh and mag is good, calcium slightly high but coming down with water changes.
Potassium and boron was low on last test but this was sorted six weeks ago and I'm doing water changes to reduce levels of zinc.
Phosphate shows as 0 on home test kit but 0.018 on triton test and nitrate shows as 0.1 on salifert test, although I have patches of turf algae which I believe must be using nitrates and phosphate to grow.
I have reduced my light settings to a max of 18% white 40%blue over time. I have just bought a purple monti so I will see if that starts to fade over the next month. It is placed next to a green monti which has been slowly fading over the past month or so.
I feed a pinch of flake in the morning, a cube of mysis in the evening and 5ml of salifert coral food a day.
Any ideas on how I can get my corals to colour up or what else could cause them to bleach are welcome.
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Lighting / Re: AI owners
« Last post by Gav on Jan 19, 2018 3:56:31 pm »
They also tried to install an earlier version than the 2.0 , but the light wouldn't run that either it only lit when running the 2.0 firmware .
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Lighting / Re: AI owners
« Last post by Asco1104 on Jan 19, 2018 3:51:35 pm »
That’s good to know they can push the update back to get the light going.


Tim
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Lighting / Re: AI owners
« Last post by Gav on Jan 19, 2018 3:36:07 pm »
It was a bit of a pain , strangely when AI logged in and reverted the firmware back to 2.0 the light came back on and worked fine until the replacement board arrived . All updated to 2.1 now and going fine .
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Lighting / Re: AI owners
« Last post by Asco1104 on Jan 19, 2018 2:55:59 pm »
Hi Gav
I had heard problems with this happening so I have skipped it the last few times it has come up on mine.


Tim
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Lighting / Re: AI owners
« Last post by Gav on Jan 19, 2018 12:32:38 pm »
A few days ago I've had a fault with one of my lights , during the update from 2.0 to 2.1 one of my 3 hydras stopped working . It would still talk to the others but just would not illuminate .
I tried various combinations of setup as parent or child etc before just performing a master reset . The indicator LED flashed through the usual start up , red green blue , followed by teal , but instead of flashing green blue the LED went white / pink in colour for around 20s flashed red 16/17 times before going solid white / pink again .
I got in touch with Tony at D-D who was incredibly helpful , at which he found the WiFi board within the light was faulty . I was sent out a new board to fit which has resolved the problem and they are all up and running now . 😊 .
Thanks Very Much to Tony at D-D 👍
I've posted this in here as the fault code above isn't listed in the manual .
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General Reef Discussions / Re: Is it necessary to use a doser when growing corals
« Last post by Mike on Jan 19, 2018 12:23:31 pm »
It’s not at all necessary, but unless you’re doing regular water changes to replenish comsumables, you’ll have to dose them manually,  or there’s these little machines that’ll do it for you.  :p
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As above you definitely can, but IMO for stony corals it's better to use a doser because you can split the dose into smaller bits and do it all through the day.  Mine doses 1ml of alk 24 times a day for example.  Otherwise you can get quite big swings, before mine went tits up, it was going from 8 dkh down to 6.8 during a day for example.  Quite a big jump to dose it back to 8 again in one go.




Also I'm too lazy

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nope. I never did. I mixed the dry chemicals into 3x 500ml mixing bottles, then dosed the correct ammount daily.
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