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Lighting / Re: AI owners
« Last post by Gav on Today at 12:32:38 pm »
A few days ago I've had a fault with one of my lights , during the update from 2.0 to 2.1 one of my 3 hydras stopped working . It would still talk to the others but just would not illuminate .
I tried various combinations of setup as parent or child etc before just performing a master reset . The indicator LED flashed through the usual start up , red green blue , followed by teal , but instead of flashing green blue the LED went white / pink in colour for around 20s flashed red 16/17 times before going solid white / pink again .
I got in touch with Tony at D-D who was incredibly helpful , at which he found the WiFi board within the light was faulty . I was sent out a new board to fit which has resolved the problem and they are all up and running now . 😊 .
Thanks Very Much to Tony at D-D 👍
I've posted this in here as the fault code above isn't listed in the manual .
It’s not at all necessary, but unless you’re doing regular water changes to replenish comsumables, you’ll have to dose them manually,  or there’s these little machines that’ll do it for you.  :p
As above you definitely can, but IMO for stony corals it's better to use a doser because you can split the dose into smaller bits and do it all through the day.  Mine doses 1ml of alk 24 times a day for example.  Otherwise you can get quite big swings, before mine went tits up, it was going from 8 dkh down to 6.8 during a day for example.  Quite a big jump to dose it back to 8 again in one go.

Also I'm too lazy

nope. I never did. I mixed the dry chemicals into 3x 500ml mixing bottles, then dosed the correct ammount daily.
As the title is it absolutely necessary to use a dosing pump in order to grow corals? Whilst i appreciate this maybe more effective in getting strong growth, can you manually add the relevant nutrients either by an all in one liquid or each element at a time, Cal,Mg, etc
Lighting / Re: Chaeto growing light
« Last post by jordanweasel on Today at 9:18:10 am »
Yea the bulb fins do get hot but not hot enough to worry about 👍
Ok so i left the times the same as my old spotlight so the chaeto light comes on at 10pm at night and goes of at 12pm the next day

I tested my water at 5.30am this morning and got
PH, 8.0
Ammonia, 0
No2, 0
No3, 5
Phosp, 0.01

My PH has dropped abit as it used to hold steady at 8.2 at night with the spot light on
I havent noticed and change in the chaeto yet apart from not getting that brown film on the waters surface.

Anyways i will keep you all informed in the next few days on its progress 
Lighting / Re: Chaeto growing light
« Last post by fr499y on Today at 8:48:11 am »
They do get a bit hot to touch but shouldn't be too bad
Filtration / Re: Ro di setup question.
« Last post by Asco1104 on Jan 18, 2018 11:43:45 pm »
The upright canisters for di are much better, there’s less chance of the water making a channel in the pod

Filtration / Re: Ro di setup question.
« Last post by Terry rh11 on Jan 18, 2018 11:22:13 pm »
Thanks for the swift reply Tim. Yeah I thought it was right but I just wanted to double check as my last one the di unit was on the top and I filled it with resin.

Thanks again

Introductions / Re: Hello.
« Last post by Terry rh11 on Jan 18, 2018 10:55:30 pm »
Hi, probably a few here and there and im a fan of pictures too. I think the biggest fish I will have would probably be a pair of blue throat triggers and a copperband, I'm not a mad fan of tangs but who knows what can happen in the sour of the moment. The wife loves wrasses so there will be a few of those in there I'm sure.
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