My 5'6"longx20"highx15"wide tank thread

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semiroundel

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Reply #15

Mightyhatter, I'm terribly sorry, I get mixed up in my old age.
It was Terrapod who said it. I've just been reading so many posts I got confused.
Please accept my heartfelt apologies.

mightyhatter

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Reply #16

No worries chap, I can barely remember my own name some days!

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semiroundel

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Reply #17

Argh, I hate aquascaping. I managed to get the return pipe in ok down to the sand, but that DD epoxy is a nightmare to use.
I've sorta aquascaped the right hand side of the tank, when the "dust" from the epoxy settles later this evening, I'll take a pic for your appraisal-please be gentle, I'm not good at it, and don't like it (did I say that already?)
The problem is that it's not very sticky, so I end up pushing the rocks down a bit to get the epoxy to engage between the two, but then the lower rock sinks futher into the sand, and sometimes starts turning on its axis.
I've resorted to doing one or two rocks at a time, then letting it set to get stability and continuing later, well that's the plan, we'll see how that goes.
This is defo better done dry!

Ratvan

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Reply #18

Have you got any clean terracotta pots about? I use them for arches, supporting the rock while the putty sets then remove them and let the rock settle, also if you can manage to sandwich super glue gel between two areas of putty that really helps it set a bit quicker while the putty cures

semiroundel

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Reply #19

Here is my first attempt, note that the big round rock just right of centre and in the middle height-wise will not stay there, it's just to add weight for sticking down the rocks.
What is intentional though, is the angle of the flattish rock in the middle, sat on the sand. This is because I'll have the two powerheads pointing towards front/middle to push water to the back and left and right thruogh the aperture around the back of all the rocks.

semiroundel

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Reply #20

I suppose that I'll end up with two reef fronts with a gap between them

semiroundel

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Reply #21

Well, I had to take a break in doing the aquascaping because I needed to get rid of an age-old problem in the aquarium- noise.You see, back in the day when I had my tank built, the method of pushing watr back to the sump was by a weir, the more water that went into the tank, the more spilled out into the weir.The problem was that there was just an open hole in the bottom of the weir, and all manner of problems ensued with that-hermit crabs would block up the hole, jumping fishes etc.The biggest was noise, as the water discharged into the weir, it would suck air with it and made a very loud gurgling noise, that could barely be ignored over a loud film even.If enough water was dispensed into the weir so that it didn't gurgle, it then got dangerously close to overflowing, and did on occasion.The answer came from another forum- a pipe that rises, then falls almost to the bottom, so the pickup is under the water, making it virtually silent.It's now so quiet in my living room, I keep having to get up to make sure it isn't overflowing, scary to have it so quiet now!
Last Edit: May 3, 2020 6:55:49 pm by semiroundel

ajm83

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Reply #22

So does the system normally run with the area behind the weir pretty empty like in your pic and the pipe running a full syphon (full of water)?

How well does it recover after a powercut?
Last Edit: May 4, 2020 9:54:25 am by ajm83

semiroundel

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Reply #23

Hi, the water level in the weir is dictated by an attenuating valve on the outlet of my Eheim sump pump.
The level in the tank overflows just enough to dump water into the weir, this is what happens:
1. sump pump turns on, filling the tank with water (the pipe from the sump pump goes over the top of tank and down to sand bed, and along to the end of the tank, it has several small holes drilled in it along the way).
2. As the water in the tank rises, it eventually spills over into the weir filling it to past the top two elbows of my return pipe.
3. as soon as it rises past the top of the pipe, it starts the siphonic action
4. the water level in the weir drops until the incoming water ingress matches the outgoing siphon, so visually, I changed the valve position until the bottom of the siphon was below the water level in the weir
5. if I were to open the valve more on the sump pump, the water level in the weir would be higher, I didn't want to take that risk so left it as is.

In the event of a power cut, the weir would empty itself until such point that the water would be so low as to break the siphonic action, hence no more water would flow down to sump.

Now you're probably thinking: if the sump pump pushes water directly to the bottom of the tank, what stops the water siphoning back through the pump in the event of a power cut?
Well, I've ordered a non-return valve to go after the sump pump, and as a back up, there is a tiny hole in the top of the elbow of the pipe which goes to the bottom of the tank, that way, when the level in tank gets to a certain point air is sucked in, breaking the siphon

ajm83

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Reply #24

The drain makes sense. 👍🏻

Just a question about the return line,  I see what you're going for but are you sure it's worth the risk?
The mitigations you have should work as long as you maintain them ... I got lazy looking after my non-return and coralline blocked the syphon break and flooded my lounge.  >:(

Just thinking you could get a pretty similar result by having a return exiting at the top and using a gyre type wavemaker with far less flood risk?


semiroundel

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Reply #25

ajm83, you're quite right of course, but the only difference between what I'm doing now and what I did the last 10 years, is having a non return valve, and the siphon pipe. The latter is self-regulating, and previously I didn't even have a non return, I did keep an eye out on the little hole at the top-it does encrust with coralline algae with time-you're right.
In actual fact the amount of water coming out of the return pipe is annoyingly little after about half way along. I had it in mind that the water would shoot out of the holes, keeping the water behind the rocks circulated, but in fact it just seems to dribble out, so much so that I think the last eight holes have little or no water coming out.
At that far end of the tank, I have an Eheim powerball powerhead facing down the back of the rocks, along the pipe to keep that water moving.
Two Tunze 6065 wave powerheads will keep water moving around the rest. Here's hoping it's enough...

semiroundel

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Reply #26

Ok, so I know it's not great, but after so much cursing, my wife had to leave the room, cos I find it such a pain doing this, I'm glad it's all over, for now.
I finished the aquascaping, and I built a sort of vertical reef wall, god knows where I'll put the corals atc as there's very little flat to put them on.At least this time, I've got the biggish gaps between the rocks for water to circulate.The obvious gap in the middle is to let the wave makers to push water around the back when both nozzles meet in the middle.Setting those up will be fun.

semiroundel

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Reply #27

It'll look a lot better without all the reflections in the room, especially once I have the lights above it.

ajm83

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Reply #28

Perfect space for a bubbletip in the middle there  8D

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semiroundel

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Reply #29

Hi all, I do like to make things on the cheap, so here goes..
Without spending a bucket load of money, I bought some 4mm steel bar from metals4u, and went round to a mate's and he bent it on his bench vice, and spot welded some supports for the two that will hold up the 8KG 800mm TMC light

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