My 5'6"longx20"highx15"wide tank thread

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Hi all, I suppose I should start a new topic here as my previous questions and photos have been spread across various ponts in tha last few weeks, being helped by the excellent guys on here- a BIG THANKS!
If you want to see the first photos, they're on the thread LED or Halide.
The story so far:
I started this tank back in 1996, and it enjoyed only a moderate success, having Halides too close to the water surface, virtually no actinic, little water changes, almost no checking on water quality etc. Only had sps and lps for a few weeks before I realised that I wasn't doing enough to keep them, fish lasted ok though, for a while...
Failure.

I let the last remaining fish live out their life, and as I had a good amount of coralline algae, I didn't switch off the pumps, but heaters/chiller went off as did the lights.
It stayed that way for something like 6-8 years, though the wife assures me it's 10!

I have started the rebuilding, lighting-wise I bought recently a 1200 TMC V2iLumenaire, and stupidly thought it meant it was 1200mm long-no it's for a 1200mm tank, the light itself is only 810mm long, so to supplement it, I've ordered a 70w version of the same light (it's a bit cockeyed I know as I'll have the 4led's in a row, and on the end one by itself) but I should just about have enough coverage for the most part of the tank.
Filtration, I have a trickle tower in the sump with bioballs in it, and an Eheim professional Mk1 wet and dry next to the tank.
Eventually, I'd like to do away with the trickle tower and use the space for a permanent skimmer installation.
I invested in two Tunze 6055 wave powerheads to link together to have wave control.
I'm building an algae scrubber to sit just above the sump to help with nitrates/phosphates.

All the above in due course will be backed up with photos, as I've learned that a photo is necessary when trying to understand what's going on.

Moderators: if this is in the wrong section, feel free to bump.
Thanks all, Jules
Last Edit: Apr 12, 2020 2:03:26 pm by semiroundel

semiroundel

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Reply #1

Well, the initial clean up is finished, one/half inch sand bed and rocks dating back to 1996, and now cleaned up and back in tank.
Next stop, the part I hate most-aquascaping.

mightyhatter

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Reply #2

Aquascaping is one of the best bits!!! Good luck!

Toper0

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Reply #3

Nice one, you've got a bit of water there!!

semiroundel

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Reply #4

Thanks, about 305L in total.
I don't like aquascaping because I get worried that there aren't enough gaps to circulate the water, and if the tank goes t*ts up, I'll blame myself, or that it doesn't look good enough, or that I haven't left room for any corals......

Ratvan

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Reply #5

Is it bad I like the rockwork how you have it? Got a nice spine of rock and some sand bed. Variety of heights for coral mounting and not too much sonthe coral can actually grow

Thanks:


semiroundel

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Reply #6

Thanks Ratvan, but it's just chucked in there, no arrangement made.
I had just scrubbed the excess algae off the rocks, they got that colour from having had stuff grow on them all that time.
They had been in the tank, with water circulating but no lighting and no feeding for at least 8 years, possibly 10.
I never would have thought that after all that time there would be fanworms, and copepods and snails living in and around the rocks, but there are.
I am happy you think it looks good, I'll add a few living rock chunks to help seed it further.
Watch this space, next photo will be once I've done the aquascaping, that is after I drop the sump return pipoe dow to the sand level (it can be seen where it was previously when I had the plenum at the bottom of the tank).
Last Edit: Apr 29, 2020 10:52:04 pm by semiroundel

Ratvan

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Reply #7

Have a look in your LFS, but honestly apart from physical appearance you will be very hard pressed to get better than 8 year old cycled rock. If you ever need to make some quick cash I'll have some from you

Strange thing to say but take a penknife with you and scrape one of the rocks, se if it's coralline or painted colour. My LFS is OK with me doing this, in the past I've bought a alvepora for the Tongan branch rock it was on but YMMV.


semiroundel

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Reply #8

YMMV?

Ratvan

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Reply #9

sorry, your mileage may vary

semiroundel

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Reply #10

Thanks Ratvan, I'm not worried about mileage, I don't mind travelling to be honest, if it means getting the right rock.
I'm genuinely surprised that some people have resorted to painting the rock, if that's the case, I'll stick with what I've got and definitely press into service my Eheim 2229 wet&dry external filter to add some surface area to bacterial filtration.
It's been a long time since I've done this before and so much has changed in the meantime.
What is worrying is testing, after I had plumped for the red sea pro nitrate test kit (I'll post a pic on my thread about test kits as they came in today), I read someone would not use that one!
The trouble is, there's so much subjective opinion being bandied about it's difficult to sort the wheat from the chaff.

Ratvan

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Reply #11


From what I have read and why i want to go with Red Sea is that [/size]RS is better at lower levels, NYOS better at higher levels. Plus I do like to see the redundancies between the tests.

mightyhatter

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Reply #12

For what it is worth I have found the RS test kits to be pretty good. I have a mixture of tests as a previous 'complete' set runs out and I am replacing them (generally with RS which I am finding give much clearer and easier to read results)

semiroundel

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Reply #13

Mightyhatter, you did say this:

"Cal, mag, alk, and po4 - red sea pro (the only red sea products I will touch)
Nitrate - NYOS"

Did you find a problem with the RS nitrate prompting you to go to NYOS? Just wondering as we all want the best for our tanks, and if there's something you know that we may not, please share.

mightyhatter

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Reply #14

That wasn't me that said that?!!? (For Nitrate I use the Hagen/Nutrafin and Red Sea)

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