HK's white spot (Marine Ich) outbreak

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Marty

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Reply #60

Would it not be easier to run a nitrate reactor instead or up the frequency of water changes ?

Mike

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Reply #61

The FSB is for aerobic biological filtration, so ammonia and nitrite.
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HK_Fuey

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Reply #62

Do you still want the dosing unit?
I don't think I answered you.  Yes please.
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HK_Fuey

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Reply #63

All fish now in QT.  Took an age to catch them all :o

Pics of the QT, my destroyed DT, new blue throat trigger, and various of the Kole tang, which is the worst of those showing symptoms of white spot.

Decided to do hypo salinity rather than copper as the mandarin can't tolerate copper.
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Mike

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Reply #64

Nice QT set up. Do you leave the FSB in the tank, or is that just temporary?

I approve of your choice in beverages BTW.  :glad:
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HK_Fuey

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Reply #65

Yes, plan to leave it in.  Can't see any reason to risk a leak by moving it external.  It adds some hiding space for the fish too, so will just leave it as is.

A cold Speckled Hen would go down nicely just now.  It's been a frustrating couple of days.  Shame there are none in the fridge.
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Mike

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Reply #66

Yeah, makes sense, it's function over form in that tank anyway.

We have a chest freezer which is like -18c. If I've no beers in the fridge, I can chuck one in there for about 5 minutes and it's frosty.  :lol:
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T-Bone Tyrone

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Reply #67

I like the fact that you're QT set up involves wellies and alcohol 8D!
I should really sort this out!!

HK_Fuey

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Reply #68

The amount of water I sloshed about getting those bloody fish out, I should have had wellies on.  I did drink alcohol to celebrate.

I've also been out and bought £100 worth of CUC to top up the DT before I start the 12 week count down.

The peppermint shrimps are both laden with eggs too  8D  You're welcome corals.
Last Edit: Jul 30, 2015 4:16:50 pm by HK_Fuey
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HK_Fuey

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Reply #69

I lost the sixline wrasse, but it wasn't a surprise.  It was brand new, and the shop gave it to me, as it had been bullied by a pair of snowflake clowns and had it's tail bitten off.  I gave it a go to save it, but I think throwing into hyposalinity with a bunch of other fish was not the best treatment it could have got (to point out, I didn't spot the ich breakout until after I got it).

I also lost the Royal Gramma, which was covered with spots, so again, not too surprised, as it would have been stressed to bits.  WARNING, the next sentence is gory! ................. I found it being eaten alive by the trigger fish, from the tail up.  I put it out of its misery quickly.

The Kole tang, which was the first to show the symptoms, and was the worst affected, has losts its spots (after just a few days in the hospital tank - as expected, as the ich drops off to breed on the bottom for the next cycle), and has recovered from the sores that leaves.  It seems to be doing well now.

I have been VERY careful with not cross contaminating the tank with wet hands, or equipment that has touched the DT, etc.  I had the ATU I use on my QT on the tank right from the beginning, so no possible slips with salt levels (it's vital the SG is kept below 1.010 for it to kill ich).

I'm very pleased with the fluidised sand bed, which caught up with the initial massive overloading of fish in one go within a few days.  I could measure ammonia daily at the beginning (even though it was running in my QT for about a month before this, and was cycled), so did massive water changes (75-80%) each day to keep up.  Once I say the ammonia drop to zero, I saw the nitrate build up fast, but that the fish can handle better, so went for every other day water changes.

The remaining fish seem to be doing fine, so it's just a case of keeping them happy for another couple of weeks at 1.009 and I can start to very slowly increase the SG (no more than 0.003 per day, but I will do less, as I have to leave the DT for 12 weeks anyway) to bring them back up.

I'm going to revise my article on curing Ich, as I think I've improved my method this time around, and I've learned more about quarantining, and have a new approach to that I want to add.  If you've not read it, wait a bit and I'll repost a link when it's done.
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Mike

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Reply #70


I don't think I answered you.  Yes please.

HK, confused now. I thought you didn't want this now?
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HK_Fuey

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Reply #71

The other conversation took place in another thread, after I typed this.  I don't want it.  Sorry Mike.
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Steve's Marines

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Reply #72

HK have you heard about polylab by D-D apparently totally reef safe for white spot/ ich. £35 a bottle for 30ml. Google a review from practical fish keeping. It's peroxide based. Might be worth a look.
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HK_Fuey

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Reply #73

I think somewhere, I linked to this set of articles...here's part 3:
Aquarium Fish: News From The Warfront With Cryptocaryon Irritans, Part Three Of Five — Advanced Aquarist | Aquarist Magazine and Blog
"Studies to test the effectiveness and safety of hydrogen peroxide for the treatment of other ectoparasites such as Cryptocaryon irritans are fully warranted (Montgomery-Brock, D. et al., 2000). However, this treatment is considered to be highly experimental, therefore it cannot be recommended. The side effects and survival rate when using hydrogen peroxide may not prove to be acceptable."

Unfortunately, it does seem to still be unproven, so I'll stick with a proven method...would be amazing if someone can prove a reefsafe method though!
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HK_Fuey

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Reply #74

I lost the triggerfish yesterday, the kole tang this morning, and now the YT and Clarkii are looking rough and are not eating.

WTF!!!!

SG and temp are fine.  Water changes have been happening every few days.  I don't know what's going on.  I'm so fed up of this now...
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