Transferring Only The Good Stuff

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Hello guys and gals

Planning to be a lot more active on here once I'm up and running again but I'm currently in a limbo period.

I had a 6x2x2ft tank which suffered from a number of issues but the most serious of these was a short, sharp and very strong bout of ich which killed every single fish despite being able to transfer quite a few of them to a hospital tank.

Very upset about it still but I've decided to get back on the saddle with a smaller sized Red Sea Reefer XL 300 which is arriving next Tuesday.

I should have been more careful from the start but I'm absolutely paranoid now about never introducing anything bad to this new tank.

My old tank is still running because it has some corals and inverts in it. It also has a huge population of copepods/rotifers as well as tiny little molusc type creatures and those orange sand dwelling animals that extend their multiple arms out across the sand.

But it also has aiptasia, flatworm, ich, bubble algae, green hair algae and asterina starfish.

My question/request is for how I can firstly physically save and transfer the coral, copepods, rotifers, tiny molluscs and sand cleaning things out of the old tank. Then second, how to ensure that no ich, algae, cysts, eggs, flatworm, etc, is transferred on or with them into the new tank?

I am currently setting up an observation 125L tank in my garage. It's filled up and I've started to cycle it with an external canister filter, bottle of Fluvel bacteria and a bottle of ammonia to seed it.

I also have a 75L tank partially cycled but was going to be used for copper treatments of new arrivals.

Many thanks in advance. It'd be a real shame to just ditch all the good life in my old tank when I drain it down.

Many thanks
Last Edit: Mar 4, 2020 6:21:43 pm by ScottF83



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Reply #1

Just commenting to bump your question as this looks a tough decision to make. There will be plenty of members on here who will provide great advice for you on this. Just need to get their attention.

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Amo Manik

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Reply #2

This maybe a long post so better grab a tea or coffee
From experience it is going to be very difficult to save the good stuff, observation tank is a good idea, move corals and and clean up crew over. With corals try to brush/remove as much of the algae before placing into the 125l tank.
I would add a wrasse to deal with the flat worm(only feed him every 3 days) so he can deal with them.
if possible add a reactor with some phosphate remover, use small amount changing every 4-6 days, test daily to make sure you don't zero out on the phosphate you want to keep it low and stable. Keep alk stable as well. I never chased numbers with nitrates and found no issues.
Bubble algae only way to deal with is manual removal, some people have success with emerald crabs but I never.
Once you have bubble algae you will always find it will pop up and will need remove, you probably know but don't pop the bubbles as it will realise spores and you'll be back to square one.
Now the controversial bit🤔ICH.
there are many views on the subject and this is my own view from experience. People may agree or may not, what works for one may not for another.
Ich will always be present on fish it lays dormant and when fish get stressed it shows.
you will never have a Ich free tank, some people are lucky and it never becomes a problem.
I personally have never used copper or any medication to treat a fish.

I use to place the fish in a temporary tank with hiding spaces and just feed and observe for over two weeks, if all was fine I would then add to my main tank with lights on low for a few hours. Never lost a fish to Ich.
I use to see Ich on my tangs--In my opinion - - I think this is where people go wrong and start to panic... If the fish is eating and swimming fine just let it be and just keep a eye on it... Trying to catch the fish at this stage is going to put unnecessary stress on the fish then its going to be put into a bare tank with medicine.. This is were it normally ends badly...
The best thing you can do is KEEP YOUR HANDS OUT OF THE Tank.. Everyone likes tinkering about moving this doing that, but if you have ever been away for a week or so and look at your tank when you return, OK glass may need a clean but everything is looking great and healthy.
I use to have may hands in my tank at every opportunity when I 1st started keeping marines so everyone does it at some stage.
I would suggest anyone ready this try and keep your hands out of the tank for 2 weeks and see if it makes a difference.

The above is only my opinion from experience, someone may have a different opinion but learning new things is what this hobby is about.
😊Right of to grab another coffee and then crack on with my tank pipework, have a good weekend everyone.



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Reply #3

Many thanks for your reply

My plans have developed a little in the meantime.

I'm going to buy the first couple of fish for the new tank and have them in qt for a month to ensure they're doing well and perform any needed treatments.

The coral and inverts will be in the old tank until that's complete and then moved to the 75L (with appropriate scrubbing and dipping) for a couple more weeks. So they will be safe too by that stage.

Means I can start to dismantle the large old tank in 3-4 weeks, which will please the wife. Haha

I just cannot think of any way to sensibly transfer the pods... Takes so long to get such a healthy population so it's very annoying! :(

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Amo Manik

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Reply #4

You could use a empty food tub with some filter floss in and place that in the main tank.. The pods should find it and make it home... I only suggest this as when culturing pods I normally stick some filter floss in the bucket and remove it and give it a shake in a bowl of tank water occasionally and it is normally full of pods.
other way would be to buy some pods and add them to the display tank before introducing fish to give them a chance to populate.


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