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Euston....we have a problem!

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Steveanem

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Reply #45

Everything I've read says go to 1.019.  I think you've gone further than you needed to.  I'd be concerned about the fish now.  Bump it back up a little.  You're trying to create an environment the parasite can't survive, but the fish can. 1.019 does that.  When the spots burst, the parasites can't survive the hyposalinity, so can't then grow and reattach to the fish.

In the DT, they will survive, but then will get to the point in their cycle, where they need a host.  You've removed their hosts (the fish), so they will eventually die in there too.  I believe this take 30 days, so you need to wait at least 30 days before putting the fish back in

I'd go for partial water changes, with new water being added each time (don't put any from the DT in the quarantine tank now). 
Adding LR to do the filtering will just kill any critters, as they won't be able to survive the hyposalinity (will they?).  You'd just create a load of ammonia by killing everything in/on the rock.


Thanks I guess I figured that as the anthias died I wasn't at a low enough salinity level and because they were still covered in spots. I suppose I half expected all the spots to just 'pop' and die!

I'm sure I read somewhere that 1.019 is the lowest a reef can tolerate but a FO should be 1.009 or at least 1.013-think it was on RC.com

Steveanem

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Reply #46

Ps I read that the DT had to be left 'fallow' for SEVEN WEEKS???

HK_Fuey

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Reply #47

Just had a read of the link Mike posted on page 1 of this thread and it says to go to 1.009/1.008, and 60 days covers you for 99.xxx% of cases (72 days to be 100% sure).

Also, cleaner shrimps are no good for whitespot as the parasite is under the skin, so not something they can pick off.

Thanks:


Steveanem

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Reply #48

Th
Just had a read of the link Mike posted on page 1 of this thread and it says to go to 1.009/1.008, and 60 days covers you for 99.xxx% of cases (72 days to be 100% sure).

Also, cleaner shrimps are no good for whitespot as the parasite is under the skin, so not something they can pick off.

Thanks I knew I hadn't just plucked that figure out of thin air. There seem to be much conflicting advice out there its hard to know at what salinity the parasites will perish.
 

T-Bone Tyrone

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Reply #49

When I tried Neosal I'm sure it said to lower salinity to 1.018, but I have heard of people saying 1.009 and I've always asked if it was a typo.
I should really sort this out!!

Steveanem

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Reply #50

Is it because Neosal is 'reef safe' so they don't tell you to reduce salinity by so much to prevent inverts etc from perishing?



Steveanem

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Reply #51

Well this morning, Billy the blue reef chromis had expired. :(

"Ashley" Kole tang is looking a bit worse for wear-very pale and patchy and keeping still a lot at the bottom of the HT.

One of the anthias is doing the same also.

So I have started a course of Cuprazin.

T-Bone Tyrone

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Reply #52

Is it because Neosal is 'reef safe' so they don't tell you to reduce salinity by so much to prevent inverts etc from perishing?

TBH I'd not put that much thought into it, but it makes perfect sense.
Hopw the others pull through
I should really sort this out!!

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Steveanem

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Reply #53

Well so much for Cuprazin and hyposalinity!
Today I lost my Kole Tang, Yellow Tang & Midas Blenny.
The YT didn't even show any signs of infection.

Now one of my purple firefish pair is on it's side gasping as is the last remaining anthias.

This is a real blow for me. After spending so much time, effort and money buying the best gear I could afford (Vertex LED, Deltec skimmer etc), not to mention the fish, I just feel like jacking it all in!
:(

Garf

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Reply #54

Well so much for Cuprazin and hyposalinity!
Today I lost my Kole Tang, Yellow Tang & Midas Blenny.
The YT didn't even show any signs of infection.

Now one of my purple firefish pair is on it's side gasping as is the last remaining anthias.

This is a real blow for me. After spending so much time, effort and money buying the best gear I could afford (Vertex LED, Deltec skimmer etc), not to mention the fish, I just feel like jacking it all in!
:(

Happens to the best of us. I tried Cuprazine in the DT 11 years ago and all it did was dissolve my clowns skin. Don't give up. Your kit is still good, shit happens. Now my tank is almost maintenance free.

Steveanem

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Reply #55

Happens to the best of us. I tried Cuprazine in the DT 11 years ago and all it did was dissolve my clowns skin. Don't give up. Your kit is still good, shit happens. Now my tank is almost maintenance free.

Thanks for the words of encouragement :) I guess it's my own fault for not having the QT for all my fish. I got away with it for almost all my fish....right until the last 2 (the Tangs) went in. I should have known better but was under pressure from the missus to lose the second tank and let her reclaim her living room!
I actually think I would have been better off leaving them in the DT in hyposaline water.
Anyway just gotta let nature take it's course I guess you live and learn eh!

HK_Fuey

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Reply #56

Oh, that sucks!

Do you have any idea what caused the outbreak?  New stock? Etc?

HK_Fuey

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Reply #57

Just saw your reply above

T-Bone Tyrone

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Reply #58

It's a shit when this happens, about six months back I had a sea cucumber die and take my tank with it, I know exactly where your coming from,  I too woukd say don't give up, you've got a great setup, leave it fallow and plan what's next, same stock again?  Try summat different.
If you were to sell you're only gonna get silly offers for your kit.
Chin up mate.
I should really sort this out!!

HK_Fuey

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Reply #59

You can take this time to work on your corals.

Just a thought...is it worth feeding the system to keep your bacteria going, so your not starting with a new cycle with your corals and CUC in the tank?

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