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Everything I've read says go to 1.019. I think you've gone further than you needed to. I'd be concerned about the fish now. Bump it back up a little. You're trying to create an environment the parasite can't survive, but the fish can. 1.019 does that. When the spots burst, the parasites can't survive the hyposalinity, so can't then grow and reattach to the fish.In the DT, they will survive, but then will get to the point in their cycle, where they need a host. You've removed their hosts (the fish), so they will eventually die in there too. I believe this take 30 days, so you need to wait at least 30 days before putting the fish back inI'd go for partial water changes, with new water being added each time (don't put any from the DT in the quarantine tank now). Adding LR to do the filtering will just kill any critters, as they won't be able to survive the hyposalinity (will they?). You'd just create a load of ammonia by killing everything in/on the rock.
Just had a read of the link Mike posted on page 1 of this thread and it says to go to 1.009/1.008, and 60 days covers you for 99.xxx% of cases (72 days to be 100% sure).Also, cleaner shrimps are no good for whitespot as the parasite is under the skin, so not something they can pick off.
Is it because Neosal is 'reef safe' so they don't tell you to reduce salinity by so much to prevent inverts etc from perishing?
Well so much for Cuprazin and hyposalinity!Today I lost my Kole Tang, Yellow Tang & Midas Blenny.The YT didn't even show any signs of infection.Now one of my purple firefish pair is on it's side gasping as is the last remaining anthias.This is a real blow for me. After spending so much time, effort and money buying the best gear I could afford (Vertex LED, Deltec skimmer etc), not to mention the fish, I just feel like jacking it all in!
Happens to the best of us. I tried Cuprazine in the DT 11 years ago and all it did was dissolve my clowns skin. Don't give up. Your kit is still good, shit happens. Now my tank is almost maintenance free.
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