Nudibranch

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Anyone got any experience with dealing with nudibranch? I have a just dipped a colony of zoas (not opening) and found loads , looks like egg sacs there too. I am worried !!!

HK_Fuey

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Reply #1

Not had them myself, but wet web media is a great site to get reliable info and I found this:
Quote
Coral-Eating Nudibranchs

Many (but certainly not all) species of Nudibranchs and/or sea slugs eat coral. Most of these eat only one species (or a few similar species) of stony or soft coral. They come in all shapes and sizes and some are more annoying than others. To get an idea of just how diverse this group of animals is, visit The Slug Forum. Hermaphroditic, coral-eating Nudibranchs can quickly and easily multiply and destroy an entire coral colony. If you see a Nudibranch on your coral and you suspect it is eating the coral, remove it. Unfortunately, this may not be the end of your problem since there could be others (or there could be eggs). If possible, removing and quarantining the coral to watch for more slugs is usually a good idea.
There's some thought that certain types of wrasses and other marine fish might eat some predatory Nudibranchs (and/or undesired flatworms). However, there's no guarantee that any one wrasse (or other fish) will eat the kind of Nudibranch (or worm) that might be bothering you. Or, even if it did, it might not eat enough of them to be effective.

Usually the only thing you can do to get rid of undesired Nudibranchs is to quarantine the affected coral and try to manually remove as many adults and eggs as you can.
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Carol

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Reply #2

Normally this is on soft corals as they come on a piece of rock ?  First signs is they the coral wont open up , 2am is the best time to spot the little beasts  :smiley:  Normally I dip corals quickly in RO water before i introduce them  ,as in the past when I had soft corals they were a big problem.





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Mike

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Reply #3

Yeah I've had Zoanthids decimated by nudis. It was a bit of a nightmare to get rid of them. I had to repeatedly dip all zoa rocks every few days for several weeks.

As the nudis conjugate on the zoa rocks, and probably lay their eggs there, by dipping the rocks repeatedly, eventually you'll reduce the numbers to the point the population dies out completely, then your zoas start to slowly recover.
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HK_Fuey

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Reply #4

What dips do people use?

I use tank water and add iodine to dip corals already in my tank, and I simply add iodine to the bag the coral come in when it's new, give it a good stir and leave for 10mins (after temperature aclimating.  I then rinse it off in a tuperware box with some tank water and repeat if needed before adding to the tank.  I have heard SPS are more fussy though, so you may want to check for a different method for those.
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Carol

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Reply #5

Well as I said ive only ever used RO , tho i do have a vague recollection of being realy desperate with an Alvepora (LPS) and useing the iodine you add to a tank in a tupperware bowl , coral sulked for a week and returned to normal , this was flatworms .


Nothing id recommend anyone did  as its a bit dodgy.


Lugols solution is whats normaly used on the iodine front .


Oddly ive never been able to keep Zoanthids ....
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Mike

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Reply #6

I've always dipped in either RO, warmed to temperature, or RO with an iodine based coral dip.

Currently I've got Seachem Reef Dip, which is iodine based.


@Lily  What happens with your zoas?
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Carol

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Reply #7

They just shrink and dissapear, admittedly ive only ever had the dull brown ones that come in with the live rock . Parameters like P03 and Nitrate list as zero on a salifert kit  and Acropora and montis etc all thrive .



Do not mock the snake because it has no horns.For who is to say that one day it may become a dragon,as one just man may become an army...Water Margin.

punchyjam

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Reply #8

Thanks for all the replies  folks . I have quarantined the affected colonies , when I turkey basted them (forgive the expression ) i got rid of a large amount.   .
Following that i took a soft bristle toothbrush and scrapped aff as many of the eggs as i could find , zoas being remarkably  hardy coped well with this. Most are now opening and looking much better. I will keep dippong in lugols and FW for the coming weeks. I have lost a number of  polyps , all my fav  zoas as well , typical. My trusted LFS has a wrasse for me he says he has had good experience with , the name escapes me at this moment . I will post a pic when he arrives. He will go to work in the QT tank
Feel better today about it , thanks again everyone for your suggestions 

punchyjam

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Reply #9

On another  side note , this is a lesson learned , i dont usually dip new coral
I know I know,  never again

HK_Fuey

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Reply #10

On another  side note , this is a lesson learned , i dont usually dip new coral
I know I know,  never again
Well, if you makes you feel any better, I just learned the quarantine lesson the hard way too, with whitespot taking out most of my fish.  QT all the way for me from now on :wink:
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punchyjam

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Reply #11

That help actually , lol       do you run  UV ?

Carol

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Reply #12

Well, if you makes you feel any better, I just learned the quarantine lesson the hard way too, with whitespot taking out most of my fish.  QT all the way for me from now on :wink:

TBH IME a UV is the better way to go.  When you have added all the stock you want if you dont want it on just turn it off .
Do not mock the snake because it has no horns.For who is to say that one day it may become a dragon,as one just man may become an army...Water Margin.

punchyjam

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Reply #13

ive read recently that all the hobby  uv sterilisers are no good at all !! , contact time and strength is apparently poor . they say to be at all effective sterilisers need to be really big professional  systems which are way to big and expensive for most of us. I have uv built in to my smaller QT tank but not on my big system

carlcall

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Reply #14

That's why I have put a separate pump on my UV and run it on it's own, as I now know I have roughly the 625 lph flow I need for maximum contact and sterilization.


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