How to upgrade redsea reefer to gate valve?

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  • Andy
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Can anybody give me a decent set of instructions for upgrading a v3 reefer 250 to a gate valve? Like what parts to buy, where to cut etc.

Losing the plot with the grey dial  :evil: 

Thanks!!
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marine_newbie

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Reply #1



That’s how I did mine. Got all parts from https://www.aquariumplumbing.co.uk

Can dig out a list if it helps.


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ajm83

  • Andy
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Reply #2


That’s how I did mine. Got all parts from https://www.aquariumplumbing.co.uk

Can dig out a list if it helps.


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Yes please mate! Your setup looks good  8D  How have you found it?
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marine_newbie

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Reply #3

It works well for me. Have a 25L tank in cabinet next to display for ATO and have taken Red Sea RO reservoir out. Put an acrylic shelf instead of RO reservoir and have a small reactor and small refugium on it. Added a ball valve on return pipe that feeds reactor but is in the way if I wanted to put RO reservoir back (have a large skimmer so doesn’t leave much space to move RO to the right)

Tja gate valve makes adjusting flow much easier though. Added unions above and below in case I want to change (below is prob ott), but happy with setup.

Will digout a list of what I bought. Will be later tonight though as making dinner


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marine_newbie

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Reply #4

Right:

I cut the drain as close to the original valve as possible leaving at least 1 cm to allow new parts to be cemented

Added a 32mm union

Small bit of 32mm pipe (1 cm visible, rest used to cement to union above and valve below)

Then gate valve

Small bit of 32mm pipe

Then 32mm union

Small bit of 32mm pipe ensuring it ends in drain section of sump beneath water level (can use original pipework as template for length)

I also used a saddler with a spacer (block of wood) to attach the pipe to the side wall of cabinet

The bottom union is a bit surplus, but unions allow you to easily remove (unscrew) the sections between the unions if you change your mind mind and want a different valve or so.

I also added a t junction plus ball valve on my return. Costs for gate conversion are about £50, for return pipe valve £25 and cement £10.


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ajm83

  • Andy
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Reply #5

Right:

I cut the drain as close to the original valve as possible leaving at least 1 cm to allow new parts to be cemented

Added a 32mm union

Small bit of 32mm pipe (1 cm visible, rest used to cement to union above and valve below)

Then gate valve

Small bit of 32mm pipe

Then 32mm union

Small bit of 32mm pipe ensuring it ends in drain section of sump beneath water level (can use original pipework as template for length)

I also used a saddler with a spacer (block of wood) to attach the pipe to the side wall of cabinet

The bottom union is a bit surplus, but unions allow you to easily remove (unscrew) the sections between the unions if you change your mind mind and want a different valve or so.

I also added a t junction plus ball valve on my return. Costs for gate conversion are about £50, for return pipe valve £25 and cement £10.


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Thanks mate, do you remember where you got them?  I'll get the same ones (assuming you're happy with them!)
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marine_newbie

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Reply #6

Thanks mate, do you remember where you got them?  I'll get the same ones (assuming you're happy with them!)
Got mine from https://www.aquariumplumbing.co.uk
Website looks bit dated, but had my stuff in a few days. I used:
Gate valve conversion: 32mm
#0181
#0224
#7036
#0965

Return pipe T junction + valve: 25mm
#0946
#0179
#8034
#0222
#0962
#0231A
#0720

Of these I ended up not using Sadlers as not enough space, and I ended up using a different barbed hose connector.

Cement #9625

I copied the cat nrs from my paper schematics, so check (couldn’t find order details anymore). Charterhouse or other shops will also sell the components you need but I found the above worked well and was a good price. Gate valve will always be about £40 or more...


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ajm83

  • Andy
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Reply #7

That's really helpful, much appreciated buddy.  Think it'll have to wait until after payday,  I've already spent £300 on the tank this month with nothing to show for it!  lol
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ajm83

  • Andy
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marine_newbie

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Reply #9

gate 7036 https://www.aquariumplumbing.co.uk/buy-aquariumplumbing.asp?ID=655&ProdGrp=156

32mm pvc pipe 1m 0224 https://www.aquariumplumbing.co.uk/buy-aquariumplumbing.asp?ID=71&ProdGrp=154

union 0181 https://www.aquariumplumbing.co.uk/buy-aquariumplumbing.asp?ID=56&ProdGrp=150

cement 9625 https://www.aquariumplumbing.co.uk/buy-aquariumplumbing.asp?ID=1063&ProdGrp=49


Can't find #0965,  @marine_newbie  was that a saddle?  0964 ( https://www.aquariumplumbing.co.uk/buy-aquariumplumbing.asp?ID=1732&ProdGrp=158 )  is a 32mm saddle, but it must be different to the one you ordered?

Thanks again for your help!
Sorry typo... Yes 0964 is a saddler. I used 2x 32mm unions, 1x 32mm gate valve, 1x 32m 1m pipe and in the end only used 1 32mm saddler.
Some people also add a ball valve before or after the gate valve, but I didn’t. This would allow you to close the drain without needing to do the fine adjustment after opening the drain. If you want to do this, think about where to place the ball valve as it might be easier further on the pipe, closer to the tank connection. It may also be useful to add unions in either side of the ball valve if not included on valve yet. Unions will allow easy replacement if needed.

Its quite an easy job, just make sure you let the cement dry properly before getting it wet. Gives a feel good factor as well when done, although you then close the cabinet door for no one to see it


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ajm83

  • Andy
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Reply #10

Sorry typo... Yes 0964 is a saddler. I used 2x 32mm unions, 1x 32mm gate valve, 1x 32m 1m pipe and in the end only used 1 32mm saddler.
Some people also add a ball valve before or after the gate valve, but I didn’t. This would allow you to close the drain without needing to do the fine adjustment after opening the drain. If you want to do this, think about where to place the ball valve as it might be easier further on the pipe, closer to the tank connection. It may also be useful to add unions in either side of the ball valve if not included on valve yet. Unions will allow easy replacement if needed.

Its quite an easy job, just make sure you let the cement dry properly before getting it wet. Gives a feel good factor as well when done, although you then close the cabinet door for no one to see it


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Haha exactly.   But you know it's there.  8D

I do like the rabbit-in-the-headlight eyes you get sometimes from a non-reefing friend or family member when they're talking with you about the tank and asking to see 'the filter'. 
I guess they're expecting to see a Fluval 206 or similar,  and you open the cabinet to reveal something that looks like a cross between a mad scientists lab, an F1 car's engine and a nuclear sub's control panel. lol
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marine_newbie

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Reply #11

Haha exactly.   But you know it's there.  8D

I do like the rabbit-in-the-headlight eyes you get sometimes from a non-reefing friend or family member when they're talking with you about the tank and asking to see 'the filter'. 
I guess they're expecting to see a Fluval 206 or similar,  and you open the cabinet to reveal something that looks like a cross between a mad scientists lab, an F1 car's engine and a nuclear sub's control panel. lol
LOL


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