frag tank stocking

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So I'm setting up a frag tank with some equipment I have kicking around. It will be lit by 6 t5's and have a couple of maxijet 1200's Planning on doing a 50% water change each week and having some live rock to deal with levels.

What do people think would be good to go in? Cuc and maybe an interesting fish?

Any massive holes in my plan?

T-Bone Tyrone

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Reply #1

The 50% water changes could be too much at one time, you could just do 10% ever other day, it'd take minutes, do it while thw kettle is on! If your just having coral there is minimal bioload, and with just one fish.
As for stock you can't go wrong with some micro hermits,  and as for a fish I would chose one known for eating pests, I think it should be functional.
Just my thoughts, I wish I could get a frag tank together.

Will you go bare bottomed? :-[
I should really sort this out!!

olyoz

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Reply #2

Yeah I was going to spread it out, my LFS suggested using the waste water from my dt as it will contain goodies for the corals.

It will be bare bottomed, the egg crate in the bottom will be raised on stilts. Will I have to build a ladder for the hermits? Lol.

What's a good fish that will eats nasties then? The tank is about 2 ft long.

Function is the name of the game. Dont really want to add to my husbandry routine. I'm mainly going to use it for fragging and splitting up the softies from my DT. I want to move away from them now and concentrate on lps/sps/nems.

T-Bone Tyrone

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Reply #3

if you have a bit of LR butted up aganst the raised egg crate they can get up there, but they may just fall through once up there! I'm sure they'll find a way tho.

A six line is known for eating flat worm
an aiptasia eating file fish does what it says on the tin, but I'd go for a true peppermint shrimp, great scavanger and aip eater.
Bumble bee snails apparanlty eat flat worms

maybe some others have heard of nano fish known for eating pests.

using DT water is fine so long as your params are good, is your thought to keep changing water instead of having live rock?
I should really sort this out!!

Mike

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Reply #4

The idea of a frag tank is an easy, low nutrient environment, so 1 or 2, or even zero fish is ideal. Any more than that and you'll loose some of the benefits of a frag tank.

I'd put a couple of hermits, a couple of snails, a few little Nassarius snails in and that'd be it.

As said I wouldn't change 50% a week in one go, and I don't even think 50% a week is necessary. 20% a week sounds good, and that wouldn't be too much in one go. Looking at the size of that tank, it could work out an easy 10L jerry can out, 10L jerry can in. (it looks about 60L and discounting the fact it isn't brimmed and will have some rock, corals, etc in).

Make sure you mark a line on it to track evaporation.

Looking forward to more pictures.  :grin:
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T-Bone Tyrone

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Reply #5



Make sure you mark a line on it to track evaporation.



Good Tip.
I should really sort this out!!

olyoz

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Reply #6

Cool. Some really good ideas guys. Thanks.

Yeah I will mark the level on the side and top up daily.
I was going to have a few kg's of live rock to help things along a bit.
Was planning on getting a couple of peppermints for the DT so could get an extra one for the frag tank I guess. Got some aptasia that needs munching anyway.

Will try and get the lights installed today and post up a pic  :grin:

olyoz

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Reply #7

Frag city b*tch, frag frag city  :cool:

Still more to do...
Only have 4 24w t5 up at the mo, have the possibility of 6. That would be better right?
Need to tidy all the cables!

Mike

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Reply #8

As light propagates following the inverse square law, you'd gain considerably more light penetration by moving it closer to the water. That big gap is unnecessary and wasteful.

Also, look at how bright those tiles are, that means that huge amount of light is being bounced right outwards at the camera, not down into the tank, so a reflective "snoot" could be useful.

It's all about making the most of what you have, rather than piling on more to compensate.

EDIT: looking at the way you've mounted the lights up behind the bottom of the cupboards, maybe a snoot is the best compromise as lowering the light might be uglier. A snoot would also protect it from kitchen contaminants somewhat.
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olyoz

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Reply #9

It's a lot brighter in real life. Should have mentioned that. My stupid camera has sucked all the light out! Lol.

I'll look into snoots. They sound interesting.

I did come up with this idea so I could mount the lights right ontop of the tank, but was worried about the heat and looks.

Mike

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Reply #10

Ha neat.

You could trial it? The ends are the hottest part of a T5...  :embarrassed:

If heat became a problem you could always wrap a strip of foil tape around the ends to reflect the heat away, although I don't know if that'd have a detrimental effect on the tubes themselves... If the anode and cathode would blow sooner because of it.  :undecided:

Either way you need a reflector for above, so why not go with it and make some kind of neat looking hood?

It'll protect the tank from contaminants, reduce evaporation, reflect more light back into the tank, there's no bad points that I can think of.

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olyoz

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Reply #11

Hmm, more to add to the list then. Alternatively I could get my 150w metal halide back from a friend and nuke the hell out of stuff. Thats going to be overkill right? Or will I get mega growth?

Mike

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Reply #12

I think it'd be too much heat and light at that range.

Stick with the T5s just optimise the implementation. :D
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olyoz

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Reply #13







Mk2! Now much nearer the water and with a egg crate hinge at the back so I can tilt it up.
Need to reinforce it all/build a surround for it or something...

T-Bone Tyrone

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Reply #14

You could get some 25x25mm ali angle, that woukd make a nice frame, not expensive if you get from the net.
I should really sort this out!!

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SPS 

tmc 


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