RODI and ammonia-who knew?

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While I was replying to @ajm83 in another post, I was reminded of TDS measurement and where it falls short.
You see, my regal tang has developed ich and I'm treating him with copper. It got so bad that I decided to give him a FWD.
In checking the fresh water for the dip, I used a seneye to check ph, whilst I was there, I noticed that the ammonia was highish for recently made RODI, then it got higher forcing me to dip with some seachem prime in the water.
In the end, it went up to 0.078ppm with no input from anywhere.
This it would appear is chloramines that don't show up on a TDS meter (I found out after a bit of googling), this indicates resin exhausted, and potentially, in the first place my carbon block not being suitable for removing chloramines.
In future orders to Vyair, I'll buy the mix of cartridges that has the chloramine- removing carbon cartridge.
Who knew right?

marine_newbie

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Reply #1

Following an earlier thread here, I checked with my local water supplier who said they aren’t adding chloramine to my tap water and have no immediate plans to do so


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ajm83

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Reply #2

You see, my regal tang has developed ich and I'm treating him with copper. It got so bad that I decided to give him a FWD.

My god you've been unlucky! Fingers crossed he comes through it.

In checking the fresh water for the dip, I used a seneye to check ph, whilst I was there, I noticed that the ammonia was highish for recently made RODI, then it got higher forcing me to dip with some seachem prime in the water.
In the end, it went up to 0.078ppm with no input from anywhere.
This it would appear is chloramines that don't show up on a TDS meter (I found out after a bit of googling), this indicates resin exhausted, and potentially, in the first place my carbon block not being suitable for removing chloramines.
In future orders to Vyair, I'll buy the mix of cartridges that has the chloramine- removing carbon cartridge.
Who knew right?

Yeah apparently it doesn't affect the waters conductivity enough to register on the meter.  Silicate can slip through the same way.

I've bought one of those chloramine blocks from Vyair but not plumbed it in yet as the block is about 2mm too short for the housing I have. Seems like it's missing a washer or something but it isn't. 🤷‍♂️


semiroundel

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Reply #3

Following an earlier thread here, I checked with my local water supplier who said they aren’t adding chloramine to my tap water and have no immediate plans to do so


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I wouldn't trust Thames water to tell me the truth!
As it is very common practice, I'll just assume they are doing it, so I'll change carbon block to protect better.
What other reason could there be in a clean brewing bucket with RODI water to have ammonia? And quite a high reading at that.
Clearly, my resin was exhausted and although this TDS test revealed some leeching of DS, it's a simple thing to do when changing cartridges to protect.

semiroundel

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Reply #4

My god you've been unlucky! Fingers crossed he comes through it.

Yeah apparently it doesn't affect the waters conductivity enough to register on the meter.  Silicate can slip through the same way.

I've bought one of those chloramine blocks from Vyair but not plumbed it in yet as the block is about 2mm too short for the housing I have. Seems like it's missing a washer or something but it isn't. 🤷‍♂️
@ajm83
I found this too, there needs to be a rubber washer at the top, these vary by thickness. I found that by changing the washers, packing it at the bottom of the cartridge with a thin poly washer or a combination of the two, it will tighten up. All you need to do is screw the top down till it just grabs the washer.
To check it's ok, you could look at the washer to see the slight "indentation" that the top plastic housing makes on the washer.
In fact, I think I bought a refillable cartridge from ebay to get things to fit (but this was because I had the same problem not with a carbon block but with a refillable resin cartridge).
So packing up from bottom/poly washers from plumbers merchants, will probably help most.

Thanks:


semiroundel

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Reply #5

Sorry, I forgot to mention that today, white spots have all but gone, so clearly FWD had the desired effect.
Now it's 30 days copper power treatment!

ajm83

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Reply #6

Sorry, I forgot to mention that today, white spots have all but gone, so clearly FWD had the desired effect.
Now it's 30 days copper power treatment!

Great news,  was it definitely WS and not skin flukes? You would see them like little sesame seeds on the bottom of the bucket when doing the dip if they are flukes.

ajm83

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Reply #7

@ajm83
I found this too, there needs to be a rubber washer at the top, these vary by thickness. I found that by changing the washers, packing it at the bottom of the cartridge with a thin poly washer or a combination of the two, it will tighten up. All you need to do is screw the top down till it just grabs the washer.
To check it's ok, you could look at the washer to see the slight "indentation" that the top plastic housing makes on the washer.
In fact, I think I bought a refillable cartridge from ebay to get things to fit (but this was because I had the same problem not with a carbon block but with a refillable resin cartridge).
So packing up from bottom/poly washers from plumbers merchants, will probably help most.

Thanks! 👍

PS About the ammonia coming through,  that can also just be from the resin getting full (regardless of chloramine).
You'd think when it's running out that it would just let everything through but it doesn't,  the weakest charged ions get displaced first.  So you get a rush of ammonia, then silicate, etc etc in order of how weakly charged they are. I'm @ work now so can't find it but there is a BRSTV video which demonstrates it.
Last Edit: Feb 22, 2021 9:58:58 am by ajm83

semiroundel

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Reply #8

Thanks! 👍

PS About the ammonia coming through,  that can also just be from the resin getting full (regardless of chloramine).
You'd think when it's running out that it would just let everything through but it doesn't,  the weakest charged ions get displaced first.  So you get a rush of ammonia, then silicate, etc etc in order of how weakly charged they are. I'm @ work now so can't find it but there is a BRSTV video which demonstrates it.
Cheers for that Andy.
I did see that video once and forgot about it.
So, I have a plan:
 1. I will replace the carts with the existing set that I have here, and check for ammonia afterwards. If nothing (of course using new resin too) then I'll be able to assume no need to buy chloramine carts.
2. This concerns resin exhaustion: I have bought an add on refillable resin cartridge and canister. So now I have two canisters after the membrane/carbon block filters. The first canister has regular resin in it, the water after passing that one goes to a canister with colour-changing resin. That way I'll know when the first resin canister is exhausted (as it will be in the front line).

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