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Sounds an interesting idea! (Sorry, haven't heard of renting!) You could always look at a tang - 'tang gangs' are a popular method for keeping gha in check if your tank is big enough
Sorry I dont, they are incredibly stupid creatures,I had one wedge itself in a rock another got stuck on the holes in the closed loop...I have heard of this being done tho. Thing is if you dont address whats causing the algae ,it just grows back when Mr Hare leaves or tops himself.
Thats annoying isnt it. Everything tests up fine ,and you get a lawn. I let my tank just jog along when the doggy doos hit the fan in 2016 ,I only had about four fish ,the corals had been eaten by an unwise purchase. Turned off the skimmer turned down the lights, started topping up with tap water Long and short I got the most fetching purple cyano all over the rocks. I tested the water but would you believe it came up perfect . So whatever it is thats feeding it,its non detectable via a kit . Deff obviously the lights feed it too...Do you have LED’s ? Just to cover all bases ,as halides and tubes when old do shift the spectrum to one that causes algae. Ive turned up the lights,started the skimmer ,shoved in bags of charcoal to try to get rid of any impurities from the tap water. Sure the water looks better but the cyano tho cleaned off insists on coming back .
From the tests it may be that nitrate and phosphate are out of balance. You probably want nitrates a little higher (5 ppm or so), but phosphate below 0.10 ppm.Phosphate in particular will let algae grow and your actual reading may be higher as some is taken up by your algae. You can consider and algae reactor, scrubber or chaeto in your sump (if you have one) to help reduce phosphate. Or use something like rowaphos in a reactor, but you may end up changing this so often that it will become pricey.I have a foxface that loves to graze, but seems selective so still have a few small patches that don’t bother me much. An urchin can also lawnmow over algae and help to reduce, but may also take small frags, shells etc and carry them round your tank.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
How would I get the nitrates a bit higher? I have rowaphos in my sump and change it out every couple of weeks. With regards to the chaeto, can input this in the sump on its own? Does it need light or anything else? I have two urchins but they just don’t touch the hair algae Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I would tend to agree with @marine_newbie that the PO4 is a bit high (agree with below 0.1). I'm surprised that the NO3 is at zero as that is really difficult to achieve - especially with your livestock (and not really desirable unless you are trying to run a ULNS). All that being said I am certainly not endorsing 'chasing' a specific number!Have you ever tested the water from the LFS? In my experience they often run their systems at pretty high nutrient levels so you could be importing some of the nutirents
Chaeto does best if it can tumble in low flow. Mine doesn’t tumble but seems to grow it does need light. I use a cheap grow LED. It has a mix of white, red and uv LEDs I think.You can dose nitrates, but wouldn’t go down that route. Maybe feed a little more, but keep an eye on phosphate. Or don’t run skimmer all the time?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Chaeto won't grow well without a bit of nitrogen.If you're sure on your test results, and want to raise it, personally I'd just make up a stock solution with potassium nitrate (KNO3) powder from ebay.The mix is as follows:1000ml (1L) of RODI water16.31g of KNO3Then you add 10ml of this mixture per 100L of tank water to add 1PPM of nitrate (and 0.63ppm of potassium). E.g. for a 250L tank, add 50ml to increase the level by 2ppm (10 x 2.5 x 2) You can make (much) stronger stock solutions if you want, up to around 300g/litre. Just be careful not to overdose!