Sea Hare

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Hey guys, I am wanting to get a sea hare for my tank to plough through the hair algae I have but I understand it will do this pretty quick and then maybe starve without being fed algae. I have read in a few places that some shops will rent a sea hare, has anyone done this or know of anywhere that does this please? Thanks


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mightyhatter

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Reply #1

Sounds an interesting idea! (Sorry, haven't heard of renting!) You could always look at a tang - 'tang gangs' are a popular method for keeping gha in check if your tank is big enough

Zimvirus

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Reply #2

Sounds an interesting idea! (Sorry, haven't heard of renting!) You could always look at a tang - 'tang gangs' are a popular method for keeping gha in check if your tank is big enough
I did look at that option but my LFS who have been my mentors have steered me away from them due to nipping of corals/other small fish and the size they get. Sea hares have a reputation for stripping the tank of algae which is what I need but I would need to feed him once that has happened. I have two urchins but they seem to skirt round the hair algae


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Carol

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Reply #3

Sorry I dont, they are incredibly stupid creatures,I had one wedge itself in a rock another got stuck on the holes in the closed loop...I have heard of this being done tho.
Thing is if you dont address whats causing the algae ,it just grows back when Mr Hare leaves or tops himself.

Zimvirus

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Reply #4

Sorry I dont, they are incredibly stupid creatures,I had one wedge itself in a rock another got stuck on the holes in the closed loop...I have heard of this being done tho.
Thing is if you dont address whats causing the algae ,it just grows back when Mr Hare leaves or tops himself.
I know what u mean with addressing the issue, it’s excess nutrients I think. All my parameters as good on the water tests:

Salinity - 1.025
Phosphate - 0.25
Kh - 11
Calcium - 440
Nitrate - 0
Ammonia - 0
Nitrite - 0
High range PH - 8

It’s not a massive thing with the algae and it doesn’t seem to spreading it’s just there and I hate it, the algae will hold onto the nutrients even though my parameters are good so in my eyes if I get shot of it that should combat it, or at least I hope


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Carol

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Reply #5

Thats annoying isnt it. Everything tests up fine ,and you get a lawn. I let my tank just jog along when the doggy doos hit the fan in 2016 ,I only had about four fish ,the corals had been eaten by an unwise purchase. Turned off the skimmer turned down the lights, started topping up with tap water  :scared:
Long and short I got the most fetching purple cyano all over the rocks.
I tested the water but would you believe it came up perfect . So whatever it is thats feeding it,its non detectable via a kit . Deff obviously the lights  feed it too...
Do you have LED’s ? Just to cover all bases ,as halides and tubes when old do shift the spectrum to one that causes algae.
Ive turned up the lights,started the skimmer ,shoved in bags of charcoal to try to get rid of any impurities from the tap water. Sure the water looks better but the cyano tho cleaned off insists on coming back .
🤬

Zimvirus

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Reply #6

Thats annoying isnt it. Everything tests up fine ,and you get a lawn. I let my tank just jog along when the doggy doos hit the fan in 2016 ,I only had about four fish ,the corals had been eaten by an unwise purchase. Turned off the skimmer turned down the lights, started topping up with tap water  :scared:
Long and short I got the most fetching purple cyano all over the rocks.
I tested the water but would you believe it came up perfect . So whatever it is thats feeding it,its non detectable via a kit . Deff obviously the lights  feed it too...
Do you have LED’s ? Just to cover all bases ,as halides and tubes when old do shift the spectrum to one that causes algae.
Ive turned up the lights,started the skimmer ,shoved in bags of charcoal to try to get rid of any impurities from the tap water. Sure the water looks better but the cyano tho cleaned off insists on coming back .

I do have leds and it’s a new rig, I have changed the lighting intensity so it’s not so bright, skimmer is getting some good crap out and have topped off the bacteria in both reactors, filter socks are changed every couple of days and 75l water change weekly. Salt Water is mixed up by my LFS and same with the RO for my auto top up.

I have pulled off some of the bigger bits during water change and it hasn’t really returned in those places. My emerald crab and hermits don’t really go near it, they are spoilt too much


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marine_newbie

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Reply #7

From the tests it may be that nitrate and phosphate are out of balance. You probably want nitrates a little higher (5 ppm or so), but phosphate below 0.10 ppm.

Phosphate in particular will let algae grow and your actual reading may be higher as some is taken up by your algae. You can consider and algae reactor, scrubber or chaeto in your sump (if you have one) to help reduce phosphate. Or use something like rowaphos in a reactor, but you may end up changing this so often that it will become pricey.

I have a foxface that loves to graze, but seems selective so still have a few small patches that don’t bother me much. An urchin can also lawnmow over algae and help to reduce, but may also take small frags, shells etc and carry them round your tank.


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Zimvirus

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Reply #8

From the tests it may be that nitrate and phosphate are out of balance. You probably want nitrates a little higher (5 ppm or so), but phosphate below 0.10 ppm.

Phosphate in particular will let algae grow and your actual reading may be higher as some is taken up by your algae. You can consider and algae reactor, scrubber or chaeto in your sump (if you have one) to help reduce phosphate. Or use something like rowaphos in a reactor, but you may end up changing this so often that it will become pricey.

I have a foxface that loves to graze, but seems selective so still have a few small patches that don’t bother me much. An urchin can also lawnmow over algae and help to reduce, but may also take small frags, shells etc and carry them round your tank.


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How would I get the nitrates a bit higher? I have rowaphos in my sump and change it out every couple of weeks. With regards to the chaeto, can input this in the sump on its own? Does it need light or anything else? I have two urchins but they just don’t touch the hair algae


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mightyhatter

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Reply #9

I would tend to agree with @marine_newbie  that the PO4 is a bit high (agree with below 0.1). I'm surprised that the NO3 is at zero as that is really difficult to achieve - especially with your livestock (and not really desirable unless you are trying to run a ULNS). All that being said I am certainly not endorsing 'chasing' a specific number!


Have you ever tested the water from the LFS? In my experience they often run their systems at pretty high nutrient levels so you could be importing some of the nutirents

marine_newbie

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Reply #10

How would I get the nitrates a bit higher? I have rowaphos in my sump and change it out every couple of weeks. With regards to the chaeto, can input this in the sump on its own? Does it need light or anything else? I have two urchins but they just don’t touch the hair algae


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Chaeto does best if it can tumble in low flow. Mine doesn’t tumble but seems to grow it does need light. I use a cheap grow LED. It has a mix of white, red and uv LEDs I think.

You can dose nitrates, but wouldn’t go down that route. Maybe feed a little more, but keep an eye on phosphate. Or don’t run skimmer all the time?


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ajm83

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Reply #11

Chaeto won't grow well without a bit of nitrogen.

If you're sure on your test results, and want to raise it, personally I'd just make up a stock solution with potassium nitrate (KNO3) powder from ebay.

The mix is as follows:

1000ml (1L) of RODI water
16.31g of KNO3

Then you add 10ml of this mixture per 100L of tank water to add 1PPM of nitrate (and 0.63ppm of potassium).
E.g. for a 250L tank,  add 50ml to increase the level by 2ppm (10 x 2.5 x 2)

You can make (much) stronger stock solutions if you want, up to around 300g/litre. Just be careful not to overdose!

Zimvirus

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Reply #12

I would tend to agree with @marine_newbie  that the PO4 is a bit high (agree with below 0.1). I'm surprised that the NO3 is at zero as that is really difficult to achieve - especially with your livestock (and not really desirable unless you are trying to run a ULNS). All that being said I am certainly not endorsing 'chasing' a specific number!


Have you ever tested the water from the LFS? In my experience they often run their systems at pretty high nutrient levels so you could be importing some of the nutirents
I haven’t ever tested their water but by rule of thumb I never add their water into my tank when I drip in new stock.


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Zimvirus

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Reply #13

Chaeto does best if it can tumble in low flow. Mine doesn’t tumble but seems to grow it does need light. I use a cheap grow LED. It has a mix of white, red and uv LEDs I think.

You can dose nitrates, but wouldn’t go down that route. Maybe feed a little more, but keep an eye on phosphate. Or don’t run skimmer all the time?


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Thanks, I did do a lot of reading and watching videos last night on it and may be able to juggle some stuff round in the sump to accommodate it, will look into it more


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Zimvirus

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Reply #14

Chaeto won't grow well without a bit of nitrogen.

If you're sure on your test results, and want to raise it, personally I'd just make up a stock solution with potassium nitrate (KNO3) powder from ebay.

The mix is as follows:

1000ml (1L) of RODI water
16.31g of KNO3

Then you add 10ml of this mixture per 100L of tank water to add 1PPM of nitrate (and 0.63ppm of potassium).
E.g. for a 250L tank,  add 50ml to increase the level by 2ppm (10 x 2.5 x 2)

You can make (much) stronger stock solutions if you want, up to around 300g/litre. Just be careful not to overdose!
Thanks for this info, I may wait till I am bit more confident with that kind of stuff before I start messing about


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