RO Water

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I have a reverse osmosis water filter in my kitchen connected to a remineralisation filter for drinking and wondered if this would be ok for water changes with a marine tank. It’s a five stage unit (6 with remineralisation) but doesn’t have the de-ionisation element and was wondering if DI water is a must in marine tanks.

Thanks

HK_Fuey

  • Graeme
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Reply #1

DI is a must. It's what gets it down from low to zero TDS.
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MightyWings

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Reply #2

Ok thanks so you know if it’s simple to add a DI filter to your machine . My remineralisation filter was just added on before the faucet tap but not sure if I can do that with a DI filter or does it have to go via a waste pipe first.


HK_Fuey

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Reply #3


Post-filter could be your re-mineralisation (although not sure what you're doing with this - why not just drink it pure?)
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MightyWings

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Reply #4

Thanks for the pic - need to work out a way of adding a DI stage onto the existing system then. Space is a little tight under sink by the time I have faffed around with the plumbing of adding another stage I may have just bought another unit for a fish tank 😂. I add the remineralisation filter at the end of the water as imo it tastes too pure and i think it’s acidic as all the minerals are taken out. I also read it’s not good to drink too much RO water due to no minerals.

MightyWings

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Reply #5

Also can you recommend a water testing kit ? I’m trying to get the water quality sorted out first before getting a tank.

HK_Fuey

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Reply #6

You can buy in-line TDS meters for the RODI system, and a pressure guage. Loads of places sell these, but I've always used Vyair, as their customer support is excellent.

If you mean test kits for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate, cal, kh, mg, etc. then RedSea is a good brand, or Salifert, or Colombo. For Phosphate I like RedSea, but there's lots of comparisons and reviews on here if you have a search, or look in the Chemistry board.
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MightyWings

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Reply #7

Ok thanks a lot for the recommendations and help with this . I don’t think it will be too much of an issue to add the DI stage to my setup with valves diverting it away from the remin filter for water changes. Will have a look into the TDS meter - that’s just what I need I.e an instantaneous readout of water quality.

Is a pressure gauge really needed as I have an electrical pumped unit already.

HK_Fuey

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Reply #8

I'm going off this:

A lot of people don't have one, but it makes sense to me.
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MightyWings

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Reply #9

DI is a must. It's what gets it down from low to zero TDS.

So I have now managed to plumb in a DI cartridge to my RO drinking water system and it seems to be working a treat. The TDS output from the DI resin was initially 3 then dropped down to 1 after a minute of so and eventually hovering between 0 and 1 TDS. I just wanted to try the system works as haven’t got to the stage of filling my tank up yet so now I have a DI canister full of water. Is it worth emptying this water while I store it for a while or best to keep the resin soaked in some water?

Also at what point is it best to change the resin - TDS 2,3,4?

HK_Fuey

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Reply #10

Great start.  So do you have do you have 4 stages now (Sediment, Carbon, Membrane, then Resin)?

You really want zero TDS. Any reading is contaminents getting into your tank. It could be anything (copper for example). Mmm, DI resin goes off it exposed to the air (it's recommended to use a fresh, sealed bag each time), so I would bin it personally. You could keep it and try it once you come to filling the tank. If it come out higher, then ditch it.
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MightyWings

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Reply #11

Great start.  So do you have do you have 4 stages now (Sediment, Carbon, Membrane, then Resin)?

You really want zero TDS. Any reading is contaminents getting into your tank. It could be anything (copper for example). Mmm, DI resin goes off it exposed to the air (it's recommended to use a fresh, sealed bag each time), so I would bin it personally. You could keep it and try it once you come to filling the tank. If it come out higher, then ditch it.

I have the DI resin still soaked in RO water in a dark room so as you say I’ll try it and if it’s high then I’ll get some more resin (or just get some anyway as I will need it!). Picture of my setup below - I have four stages including the membrane and then I have another two after it for drinking water (odour filter and remineralisation).


HK_Fuey

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Reply #12

Is that 10 TDS after the membrane?
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MightyWings

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Reply #13

Is that 10 TDS after the membrane?

Yes it goes down to 8 after a while

HK_Fuey

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Reply #14

Was the DI resin tightly packed? It should cope with 10TDS going in, and come out zero.
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