new 6' tank and sump advice

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Marty

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Reply #15

No problems glad to help :)

Marty

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Reply #16

Fluidised sandbed in my opinion is dated now.

I would have

Carbon
Phosphate media
Pellet reactor

I can't really see the need for any others myself personally

Marty

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Reply #17

Mine don't mine run out over the top as I have buble magus ones and my pellet reactor exit is near intake on skimmer.


HK_Fuey

  • Graeme
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Reply #18

Outputs can go anywhere.  It's such a small volume, it won't make much difference.  Ideally you wouldn't run the water that just came out back through again, as the media could be working on water with higher content of whatever it's trying to remove.

FSB is not needed in your main tank.  I say that, as I run one in my quarantine tank, but that's because there is no other biological filter, as you can't run liverock in there if you're adding chemicals, or with hyposalinity, as it'd kill all the critters and often the bacteria in the rock.

Another issue with FSBs is if the pump were to stop, the bacteria will die quickly (minutes) due to lack of oxygen, and then it will massively pollute the tank.  Better to take it out IMHO.
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HK_Fuey

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Reply #19

Have a read of this thread:
Eradicating diseases and parasites - Marine Fish - Marine Fish Diseases - ReefBase Marine Fish & Reef Keeping Forum

I had a heater, FSB, sponge filter without the sponge for water movement (but would have a powerhead instead if I had a spare), and airstone for additional aeration (tangs need very well oxygenated water), thermometer, and an ATU (essential if you plan to do hyposalinity, as if it raises just a tiny bit, it can compromise the whole process).

For the FSB, you need to cycle it for several weeks before it will have enough bacteria living in it to cope with fish waste.  You'll need to feed the tank to build up the bacteria, and keep doing tests to check when the cycle is complete.  Only then can you add livestock.

As for three tangs in the QT.  It depends how small, small is.  They will be put into pretty small holding tanks in the LFS.  Remember this is temporary.  You want as much volume as you can get really, to reduce stress, and to dilute waste.
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Mike

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Reply #20

Hi, yes the rubber seal on the wet side, the nylon is for the nut to slide against, to "lubricate" it so it can be tightened up nice and tight compressing the rubber ring on the inside. Also makes sure the fitting stays still and the nut rotates.
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Mike

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Reply #21

Yes. Rubber seal on the inside, sealing the bulkhead against the glass, then glass, then nylon ring spreads the load and lubricates the nut, so it can pull hard on the rubber ring.

Don't over tighten, but you should see the rubber washer compress a little on the inside.
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HK_Fuey

  • Graeme
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Reply #22

You need a couple of corners to get it over the top of the weir and back into the tank.  Like this:

When it's running, you want the top of the return pipe just enough into the water that it doesn't create bubbles.  That will mean that when the return pump stops, the siphon which would start sucking water down into the sump will immediately break, meaning you have very little extra (just what's above the lowest drain pipe in the weir, what's in the return pipe, and the tiny bit is siphons from the DT before the siphon breaks) pouring down into the sump - this ensures a flood is impossible.

The little holes they've drilled are optional, as long as the pipe is close to the surface.  If you push the pipe down lower, you need the little holes to start sucking in air and break the siphon.
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Reply #23

They fail, which means the pipe could siphon a lot of water down to the sump and flood your house.  Keep it simple and it can't go wrong.
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Marty

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Reply #24

That's why when I had my tank built I requested the returns in the centre of rear pane adds flow like this



Also run a weir at each end which really helps to pull the crap out the water. The returns in centre also help to give good surface agitation.
Last Edit: Oct 16, 2015 6:34:03 pm by Marty

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